Shopsins is Unique. Plump, grouchy, and with his gray bouffant bursting out from beneath his
Mets cap, looking a bit like a dyspeptic Shelley Winters, the
inimitable Kenny Shopsin is back in business. “Fuck!” he says one
afternoon as the orders roll in. “I was getting used to not working—give
me the ticket, asshole.” Masochistic fans are thrilled to rediscover
Kenny’s pumpkin “slutty cakes” in their new home at the Essex Street
Market, and we can personally vouch for the aggressive maltiness of his
chocolate malted, the garlic assault of his Rooster sandwich (chicken
salad, spicy Cheddar, avocado on garlic bread), and the mad genius of
his deep-fried pickles. Although this space adjacent to the Saxelby
Cheesemongers kiosk is about as big as a janitor’s closet and the menu
has yet to be restored to its 1,000-or-so-item glory, there’s still room
for an arsenal of ingredients arranged on towering shelves. And should
Kenny ever run out of mango for his mango chicken lime, or blue cheese
for his Svetlana kielbasa breakfast plate, he has the entire market at
his disposal.
— Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
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